Q and A for AC & Heating

Curious about your home's heating?

Well, good news. Because almost everyone has some sort of question about their air system, there are plenty of Q & A sites (one of which just happens to be on www.sinclairair.com/FAQ/Questions.htm). Another good Q & A site for debunking of a kind 'myths' is the one located at www.powerhousetv.com. They recommend NOT closing off vents in rooms that aren't used. They also give the chimney a pretty bad grade on home heating. But they are in the Midwest and I'm sure they know what they are talking about. Their science matches up and everyone in heating or air will tell you how important insulation and weatherization are to keeping your home comfortable. On the powerhouse site, they also have a pretty neat "facts & figures" area. While I am very familiar with the statistic "40% of home energy costs go towards heating/air" you might not be. http://www.powerhousetv.com/stellent2/groups/public/documents/pub/phtv_se_he_000608.hcsp They also mention:

"Each year, U.S. residential duct leakage costs consumers $5 billion. This energy loss is equivalent to the annual energy consumption of 13 million cars. A wood-burning fireplace can exhaust as much as 24,000 cubic feet of air to the outside. A $50 programmable thermostat can pay for itself in energy savings in just one heating season."

Things that I bet you didn't know. Now that you do though...looks like if you don't want to add your home duct leakage to the 5 billion it's time to get a check up on your heating system.

Spread the Eco-friendly "Green"

Paul Loeb, In his article "Saving the economy one furnace at a time" argues that in replacing our old heating and air conditioning systems we can both stimulate jobs and production, but also soothe our acheing wallets by alleviating energy costs. When money is so hard to come by, the luxuries are the first to go. Shopping for clothes and shoes slows down and eventually even the semi-basic necessities are cut out. One's car runs for longer than it should without that ignorable oil change, one's heating and air system can grind to a halt and the space heaters or fireplaces get cleaned out for regular use. Perhaps some of you are suffering in the chilly (and weird might I add) weather in Southern California because your heater went out. Instead of replacing it - or getting it serviced, inginouity has caused creative attempts to stay warm. I would like to point out that prices have gone down (relatively speaking) you are getting more efficiency for your moneys worth and preventing harmful refrigerant (that was previously used) from adding to the ozone layer. Plus there are tons of state and local government programs that will help you to pay for a new heating unit. Maybe it's time to be comfortable again?

How to Heat Your House...

Source: "Warm Up How to heat your house—not the outside." By Meaghan O'Neill and treehugger.com Updated Tuesday, May 29, 2007, at 12:26 PM ET

More than 20 percent of the carbon dioxide emissions in the United States come from energy use in homes. A major source of the problem is heating, and even though we're heading toward summer, heat is still an essential element in reducing your carbon load for the year. Some of us keep our homes warmer than we need to—if yours feels like an icebox in summer and a toaster in winter, you're probably in this group. In addition, most houses leak some hot air (and, in the summer, cool air) from every window, doorway, and air duct, which means that they're constantly wasting energy, and thereby upping CO2 emissions.

According to O'Neill there are always the alternatives to regular energy use. The article cites solar and wind energy, as well as geothermal heat sources - which are very "green" and will help your wallet in the long run. However, the article also gives suggestions if you are heating your home through traditional methods of gas or oil furnaces. Here are some suggestions:

• Chimneys of traditional fireplaces are designed to remove the byproducts of a fire by creating a draft. That means they suck heat from your home, even when they're not in use. It's a good idea to keep the damper closed. Better than a fireplace (or you could install one inside it) is a wood-burning or pellet stove. They supplement your regular heat source, are more efficient, and use fuel that's much cleaner and cheaper. • OK, so you're really stuck—you live in an apartment and can't choose where your heat comes from, or maybe even what temperature the thermostat is set to. You can still deal with your carbon sludge by purchasing carbon offsets for your home through programs like TerraPass. Your home won't get a direct delivery of green energy. But you'll be investing in it.

There are many different options for heating your home, ranging from pellet stoves to under-floor heating pipes to traditional furnaces and even space heaters. Whatever the method for heating your home, the goal is always to be comfortable and not break the bank. It might be time to start looking into some greener alternatives that will give you more comfort in home and maximize their efficency.

Damp Winter House?

During the cool winter months - and the bout of weather predicted for later this week, it is easy to close up all the windows and flip on the furnace or heaters in your home. If you have an older home, this can cause problems.
Cool air has less moisture in the air than hot air (scientifically because of the molecule structure), when that cool air is heated, even more of the moisture can be taken out of the air. The process of heating can create parts or areas in your home that are drier than others - causing dry skin or itchy eyes. Other parts of the home, say, where water is used often - the bathroom or the kitchen, or even those that are poorly insulated can have more moisture in them than the air can absorb. This can cause condensation on glass windows or outside-facing walls.
What's a homeowner to do? Well, there are several different options depending on the severity of the situation. 1. If there is mold in the home, steps need to be taken to not only kill the mold, but also to remove the spores. There are suggestions from Washington state at: http://www.doh.wa.gov/ehp/ts/IAQ/GOT_Mold.html. They provide information on not only how to remove the mold, but also how to prevent it in the future. If your bathroom or kitchen is poorly insulated, you may not even see the mold. Be sure to check inside or underneath cabinetry. 2. Use your heating or air system to adjust humidity levels. This one will only work if your ducting and units are in tip-top shape. If the ducts are being utilized to their optimum capacity and all the rooms are being heated to the same temperature - you probably aren't having problems with moisture. However, if certain rooms receive less air flow, it may be time to have a contractor inspect your ducting. Perhaps there is a bad seal or other leak in the ducting, which is allowing the heated air to flow into non-livable spaces. This link provides a pdf for more information: http://www.socalhers.com/resources/Why%20is%20duct%20testing%20important.pdf 3. Check your insulation levels. Especially if your home was built before the 1990s, the insulation levels have changed and so your home may be lacking layers that have been added to subsequent building codes. If your home is not properly insulated, heat may be escaping, and cool air coming in - also causing the temperature changes and condensation on the windows. More information can be found at: http://www1.eere.energy.gov/consumer/tips/insulation.html If you have tried all of the above (or if they do not apply to you) you might want to consider adding a humidifier or dehumidifying option to your existing HVAC system to ensure that the proper levels are maintained throughout the day. This can be especially helpful for households where members suffer from asthma or other respiratory illnesses.

Furnace Terminology

As Furnaces become more energy efficient, it seems that the language one must speak to understand them also becomes more complex. Thankfully, many sites have taken the opportunity to provide alternate definitions in hopes of explaining these terms. We also have a glossary at Sinclairair.com. However, there are several types of furnaces. The website at http://www.atcoenergysense.com/Tools+and+Resources/Articles+and+Fact+Sheets/Residential/FurnaceTerminologyandTechnology.htm provides a couple of helpful definitions.

"Burner Controls
Today’s heating systems are manufactured with single-stage, two-stage or modulating burner controls.
Single-Stage: These burners operate with very little flexibility. Basically, the burner is fully on (operating at full fire) or fully off. Older conventional furnaces in many homes still operate in this manner.
Two-Stage: Much like having two furnaces in one. During mild winter weather when the demand for heat in the home is low, the burner operates at low stage. During colder temperatures, when the heat loss in the home is at its greatest, the burner adjusts to its higher stage (full capacity). This system cycles the furnace on and off more effectively, offering increased energy savings compared to a single-stage furnace.
Modulating: These burners have the most flexibility in adjusting to heating requirements (moving up and down continuously in relation to the home's heating demand). This system offers greater efficiency and comfort compared to single- and two-stage gas valve systems."

Is a Humidifier or Humidifier Option Right For You?

With all of the increases in Heating and Air technology, there are a plethora of add-on items available for purchase outside the regular furnace and AC model. Many companies are now adding allergen free lights to kill bacteria in the air or filtration systems that can be added to bring in outside air and then clean it. Another possible add-on is a humidifier. A humidifier can be a good option if you experience coughing, itching or bothersome eyes during the 'heating' season. How this works: cold air, by nature holds less water than warmer air (that's why in the summer humidity can kill). When cold air is heated, the cold air looses even more humidity. So, those sensitive to moisture (or the lack of) in the air, can have problems. Consumer reports (www.consumerreports.org) tested a battery of portable humidifiers (an alternative to installing one with your central heating system) but found many of them did not meet their manufacturer's claims. While others, provided too much moisture, which led to condensation on the windows. Another pro for installing with a central system is the need for cleaning. With the portable models, the filter needs to be cleaned before each use and deep cleaned if it has been in water for as little as 48 hours. The central humidifiers do not need to be cleaned in this same way, usually the filter is removed or itself cleaned less frequently. Humidifiers may be a good option for those looking to breathe a bit easier in the winter months. *picture from the article on consumer reports. To see the article, please click the title of this post.